The Room-by-Room New Build Snagging Checklist: 150+ Items to Inspect Before You Settle In

Before You Start: What You'll Need

You don't need professional equipment, but a few basic items will help you inspect more thoroughly:

Torch — essential. Shine it at a low angle across walls and ceilings to reveal bumps, dips, and imperfections in plastering and paintwork that are invisible under normal lighting
Phone or camera — photograph every defect, ideally with something for scale (a coin or your finger)
Notepad or this checklist printed out — note the room and exact location of each issue
Spirit level (optional but helpful) — check worktops, windowsills, and floors for level
A marble or small ball — place on hard floors and windowsills to check for obvious slopes
Step ladder — for checking the loft hatch and higher fittings
Blue painter's tape or sticky notes — mark defect locations on walls and fittings so you can find them again

Best Conditions for Inspecting

Inspect during daylight hours — natural light reveals more than artificial
Turn all lights on as well, to check every fitting works and to provide cross-lighting
Turn the heating on an hour before you start — you need to check every radiator gets hot
Run hot water for 5 minutes before you start — check the boiler fires up and water reaches temperature
Allow 3-5 hours for a thorough inspection of a 3-4 bedroom house

General Checks (Apply to Every Room)

Run through these checks in every single room before moving to the room-specific items:

Walls and Ceilings

Shine your torch at a low angle across every wall — look for bumps, ridges, and uneven plaster
Check for cracks, especially at corners, above doors, and around windows
Look for nail pops (small circular bumps where plasterboard nails are pushing through)
Check paintwork is even with no missed patches, runs, drips, or brush marks
Ensure paint colour is consistent — no touch-up patches that don't match
Check ceilings for sagging, cracking, or uneven artex/texture
Inspect all corners — they should be straight and crisp, not wavy

Skirting Boards and Architraves

Check all skirting boards are firmly fixed (push gently — they shouldn't move)
Look for gaps between skirting and wall, or skirting and floor
Check mitre joints at corners — they should meet cleanly with no gaps
Inspect for scratches, dents, and paint drips on skirting
Check architraves around doors sit flush and have clean mitred corners
Ensure caulk/filler along the top edge of skirting is neat and continuous

Doors

Open and close every door — it should move freely without catching the frame or floor
Check the gap around the door is even on all sides (approximately 2-3mm)
Test the latch — it should click firmly into the strike plate
Check handles operate smoothly from both sides
Inspect hinges — no paint on them, screws tight, no squeaking
Check the door stops (if fitted) — the door shouldn't hit the wall
Look for scratches, dents, or paint drips on door faces and edges
Ensure the bottom edge of the door is sealed/painted (often missed)

Windows

Open and close every window — check all locking positions work
Test restrictors on upper-floor windows (safety requirement)
Check trickle vents open and close
Look for scratches or damage to glass panes
Inspect rubber seals around the frame — no gaps or deformation
Check drainage slots at the bottom of the frame are clear (not painted over)
Look for condensation between double-glazed panes (indicates seal failure)
Check internal sills are level and securely fixed
Inspect sealant around the frame where it meets the wall — should be neat and continuous

Electrical

Test every socket with a phone charger or lamp — all should work
Check sockets and switches are straight and flush to the wall (not at angles)
Ensure face plates are not cracked or scratched
Test every light switch — check two-way switches work from both positions
Check dimmer switches operate smoothly through their range
Inspect ceiling light fittings — secure, straight, no gaps around the rose

Flooring

Walk slowly across the entire floor — listen and feel for squeaks, creaks, or bouncy spots
Check carpet is properly fitted to edges with no lifting or bubbling
Inspect carpet for stains, pulls, or damage from construction work
For hard floors, check tiles for cracks, chips, or hollow sounds (tap gently)
Check threshold strips between rooms are secure and don't present a trip hazard
Look at floor/skirting junctions — gaps suggest floor wasn't fitted properly

Heating

Check every radiator gets hot across its full surface (cold spots indicate air or balancing issues)
Ensure radiator valves (TRVs) respond — turn up and down, feel for temperature change
Check radiators are level and securely fixed to the wall
Look for paintwork damage around radiator brackets
If underfloor heating is fitted, check each zone responds to its thermostat

Kitchen Checklist

Units and Worktops

Open and close every cupboard door — check alignment, soft-close function, and that they sit flush when closed
Pull out every drawer — check runners are smooth and drawers close fully
Check all handles are straight, tight, and consistently positioned
Inspect worktop surface for scratches, chips, or stains
Check worktop joints — they should be tight with no visible gap or lippage
Run a spirit level along the worktop — it should be level
Check the worktop edge where it meets the wall — should be sealed with a neat bead of silicone or an upstand
Inspect inside every cupboard — look for rough cuts, unfixed shelves, and debris
Check plinth boards are secure and straight along the base of the units

Sink and Taps

Run both hot and cold taps — check flow rate and that hot water reaches temperature
Fill the sink and drain it — water should drain quickly with no slow-draining or gurgling
Check under the sink for leaks while water is running
Inspect silicone seal around the sink — should be neat with no gaps
Check the overflow works (fill the sink to the overflow hole — water should drain away)
Test any pull-out spray function

Appliances

Test the oven — turn it on, check it heats, check the door seal
Test the hob — every ring/burner, including ignition on gas hobs
Run the extractor fan on all speeds — check it's not excessively noisy and actually extracts (hold a tissue to the vent)
Test the dishwasher if fitted — run a short cycle and check for leaks
Check the fridge/freezer space — confirm water and electrical connections are accessible
Test any integrated washer/dryer if fitted

Tiling and Splashbacks

Check all tiles are firmly fixed (tap gently — hollow sounds mean poor adhesion)
Inspect grout lines — should be consistent, no gaps or crumbling
Look for cracked or chipped tiles
Check the junction between tiles and worktop is sealed
Inspect tile edges and end pieces — should be neatly cut with trim strips where exposed

Bathroom and En-Suite Checklist

Repeat these checks for every bathroom, en-suite, and WC in the property.

Bath and Shower

Run the shower at full power for 2-3 minutes — check pressure, temperature, and that the enclosure doesn't leak
Fill the bath and drain it — check drainage speed and look under the bath panel for leaks
Check the bath panel is secure and removable (you'll need access for future maintenance)
Test the shower screen or door — should open/close smoothly, seals should be intact
Check silicone seals around the bath edge, shower tray, and screen — should be neat, continuous, and mould-free
Test the thermostatic mixer (if fitted) — it should limit maximum temperature
Check the shower head bracket holds the handset securely

Toilet

Flush the toilet — check it fills and flushes correctly, no running water after the flush completes
Check the toilet is securely fixed to the floor (gently try to rock it — it shouldn't move)
Inspect the seal at the base — should be silicone, neat, and complete
Check the seat — should be firmly attached, not sliding sideways
For concealed cisterns, check the flush plate is secure and both buttons work (full and half flush)

Basin

Run both taps — check flow and temperature
Fill and drain — check drainage speed
Check the overflow works
Inspect silicone around the basin where it meets the vanity or wall
Check the waste plug mechanism (pop-up or click-clack) operates correctly
Look under the basin for leaks while water is running

Tiling

Check all tiles are firmly fixed — tap to identify hollow tiles
Inspect grout for gaps, crumbling, or inconsistent colour
Check tile cuts around pipes, fittings, and edges are neat
Look for cracked or chipped tiles (especially floor tiles)
Check silicone where tiles meet the bath, shower tray, and basin — must be watertight

Ventilation

Check the extractor fan works (hold a tissue to it — should be pulled towards the vent)
Verify it runs on a timer after the light is switched off (building regulation requirement for windowless bathrooms)
Check for any window — ensure it opens and closes correctly

Other

Check towel rail / heated rail works and is securely fixed
Test the mirror light and shaver socket (if fitted)
Check all accessories (toilet roll holder, hooks) are firmly fixed
Inspect the floor for any signs of water damage or staining from construction

Bedroom Checklist

Repeat for every bedroom including the master and any dressing rooms.

Built-in Wardrobes (if fitted)

Open and close all wardrobe doors — check alignment and smooth operation
For sliding doors, check they slide freely and stay on track
Check shelves are level and secure
Check hanging rails are firmly fixed (pull down gently to test)
Inspect internal finish — look for rough edges, unfilled screw holes, or damage
Check soft-close mechanisms work on hinged doors

Bedroom-Specific

Check there are enough sockets in practical positions (not all behind where the bed will go)
Test TV aerial/satellite points with a detector or by connecting a TV
Check phone/data points if specified
Test any USB charging sockets
Inspect the window — pay particular attention to upper-floor window restrictors (safety requirement)
Check loft hatch access if located in a bedroom (should open smoothly, have a proper catch, and be insulated)

Living Room and Reception Rooms Checklist

Fireplace (if fitted)

For gas fires: check it ignites, flames are even, and the glass front is undamaged
For electric fires: check all settings work
Check the surround is level, firmly fixed, and undamaged
Check the hearth is secure with no loose tiles or stone

Living Room-Specific

Check TV point locations — ensure aerial, satellite, and data sockets are where you'd expect
Test every socket, especially any recessed floor sockets
Check patio or French doors open, close, and lock correctly from both sides
For bi-fold doors: check every panel opens and folds cleanly, locking points all engage, threshold strip is secure, and drainage channel is clear
Check the floor under large windows for any signs of water ingress or discolouration

Hallway, Stairs, and Landing Checklist

Entrance Hall

Check the front door locks from inside and outside with all keys provided
Test the doorbell
Check the door opens fully without catching on the floor or frame
Inspect the threshold — should be weathertight with no draft
Check any glazed panels in the door for scratches or seal issues
Test the door chain and spy hole if fitted
Check the consumer unit — should be labelled with each circuit clearly identified
Locate the stopcock and check it turns (usually under the kitchen sink but sometimes in the hallway)
Check the gas meter cupboard opens (if applicable)

Staircase

Walk up and down slowly — check for squeaks and movement on every tread
Check the handrail is firmly fixed along its entire length (pull firmly)
Check spindles/balusters — none should be loose or rotate. The gap between them must be less than 100mm (building regulation requirement — a 100mm sphere shouldn't pass through)
Check the newel posts are solid (no movement when pushed)
Inspect stair carpet fitting — should be taut with no lifting at the nosing
Check the understairs cupboard door, light, and internal finish

Landing

Check landing floor for squeaks
Test smoke detectors — press the test button on each one (there should be one on every floor)
Check the loft hatch if located here — should open smoothly, sit flush when closed, and have insulation on the back
Check landing light and any two-way switches work from both top and bottom of stairs

Loft Checklist

If you can safely access the loft, this is one of the most important areas to inspect. Many defects hide here.

Check insulation is laid evenly and covers the entire ceiling area — minimum 270mm depth for new builds
Ensure insulation isn't blocking eaves ventilation (there should be a gap at the edges)
Look for daylight coming through the roof — indicates missing or displaced tiles
Check any visible roof timbers for damage, staining, or excessive notching
Look at party wall fire stopping (where your loft meets the neighbour's) — should be solid with fire-rated material filling any gaps
Check any water tanks are properly supported and insulated
Look for construction debris — often left in the loft by trades
Check any loft boarding is secure and doesn't compress the insulation (should be on raised legs)
Inspect any visible pipework — should be insulated, especially in unheated loft spaces
Check the loft hatch seal — should have an insulation pad and a draught seal
If a loft ladder is fitted, check it extends and retracts safely

Safety note: Only walk on joists or properly installed loft boarding. Do not step on the plasterboard between joists — it will not support your weight.

Garage Checklist

Check the garage door opens and closes smoothly — test manual and electric operation
For electric doors, test the remote control and any key switch override
Check the safety auto-reverse on electric doors (place an obstruction — it should stop and reverse)
Inspect the garage floor — check for cracks, excessive slope, or poor surface finish
Check the fire door between garage and house (if attached garage) — should be FD30 rated, self-closing, and seal properly
Test the light and any sockets
Check for a boiler or utility installations — ensure they're accessible with required clearance
Look at the ceiling and walls — check for unfinished areas, exposed services, or poor plastering
Check the consumer unit if there's a separate garage circuit

External Checklist — Front, Rear, and Sides

Walls and Brickwork

Walk around the entire property — check brickwork for cracks, staining, or damaged bricks
Inspect mortar/pointing — should be consistent, neat, and fully filling the joints
Check for the DPC (damp-proof course) — a visible line in the brickwork, usually 150mm above ground level. Ensure the ground hasn't been built up above it
Look at air bricks and vents — should be clear, not blocked with mortar or debris
Check render (if applicable) — look for cracks, hollow patches (tap to test), and staining
Inspect the junction between different materials (brick to render, brick to cladding)

Roof (From Ground Level)

Look at the roofline — should be straight with no sagging or dipping
Check for any obviously slipped, cracked, or missing tiles/slates
Inspect ridge tiles along the top — should be straight and firmly bedded
Check lead flashing around chimneys, dormers, and wall junctions — should be dressed neatly into the brickwork
Inspect soffits and fascias — should be straight, properly fixed, and undamaged

Gutters and Drainage

Check gutters are securely fixed and aligned (should slope gently towards downpipes)
Look for any visible gaps or misalignment at gutter joints
Check downpipes are secure, straight, and properly connected at the bottom
During or after rain, check for any overflowing or dripping at joints
Inspect gully drains at ground level — should be clear and draining freely
Check any visible drain covers are level with the surrounding surface and can be lifted for access

Windows and Doors (External)

Check external sealant (mastic) around all window and door frames — should be neat, continuous, and properly adhered
Inspect window sills — should slope away from the building so water drains off
Check all external doors lock and unlock correctly
Inspect the threshold of external doors — should be weathertight

Driveway, Path, and Patio

Check the driveway surface for cracks, unevenness, or poor finish
Ensure the driveway slopes away from the house (not towards it)
Check block paving is level and properly sand-filled at joints (if applicable)
Inspect paths for cracks, trip hazards, and proper falls away from the building
Check the patio surface and that there's a step down from the house (usually at least 150mm below the DPC)

Garden and Boundaries

Check fencing is complete, straight, and firmly fixed
Check fence posts are vertical and secure
Inspect any boundary walls — check for cracks and that the coping stones are mortared
Check gates operate correctly and latch securely
Check outside taps work (if fitted)
Check external power sockets work (if fitted)
Test any external lighting
Check the garden has been levelled and turfed/seeded as specified
Inspect any retaining walls for cracks or movement

Utility Room / Boiler Cupboard Checklist

Check the boiler fires up and produces hot water and heating
Read the boiler pressure gauge — should be between 1 and 1.5 bar when cold
Check all pipework connections for leaks
Test the central heating programmer/timer — check you can set schedules
Check the room thermostat responds (turn it up — boiler should fire; turn it down — boiler should stop)
Locate the water stopcock and ensure it turns
Check washing machine connections — hot, cold, waste all accessible
Test any sockets and the light
Check ventilation — a boiler room needs adequate airflow
Ensure all boiler/appliance manuals and certificates are provided

Safety and Compliance Checks

These aren't cosmetic — they're legal and safety requirements that your new build must meet.

Smoke detectors: One on every floor level (minimum). Test each by pressing the test button. Check they're interconnected — when one sounds, they all should.
Carbon monoxide detector: Required in any room with a combustion appliance (gas boiler, gas fire). Test the button.
Window restrictors: All openable windows above ground floor must have restrictors limiting the opening to 100mm (child safety requirement).
Staircase gaps: The gap between balusters/spindles must be less than 100mm throughout.
Glass safety markings: Any glazing in doors, side panels, or at low level should carry a BS EN 12600 safety mark (look in the corner of the glass).
Fire door: The door between an integral garage and the house must be a fire door (FD30 minimum) with an intumescent strip and self-closer.
Consumer unit: Should be labelled with every circuit clearly identified. The RCD (residual current device) should have a test button — press it and it should trip.
Water temperature: Hot water at the taps should not exceed 48°C in bathrooms (thermostatic mixing valve requirement).

Documentation Checklist

Before or soon after completion, ensure you receive all of the following from the developer:

NHBC Buildmark certificate (or equivalent warranty documentation)
EPC (Energy Performance Certificate)
Electrical Installation Certificate (BS 7671)
Gas Safe certificate for the boiler installation
Building Control Completion Certificate
Boiler and appliance manuals and warranty cards
Window and door guarantees (usually 10 years for frames, 5 for hardware)
Central heating system details and commissioning certificate
Paint colours and specification sheet (helpful for future touch-ups)
Kitchen appliance manuals and warranty registrations
Details of the property management company (if applicable) and estate charge schedule
Adopted roads/drainage status and any Section 38/104 agreements

How to Report Your Findings

Once you've completed the walkthrough, compile your findings into a clear report for the developer:

Format Your Report

Organise by room — kitchen items together, bathroom items together, and so on
Number every item sequentially (Item 1, Item 2, etc.)
For each item, note: the room, exact location, what the defect is, and attach the photograph
Use clear, factual language: "Kitchen — worktop joint has 2mm gap at sink end" is better than "kitchen worktop looks wrong"

Submit to the Developer

Email the report to the aftercare/customer care team — get the specific email address from your site manager
Keep a copy for yourself and your records
Ask for a written acknowledgement and a proposed repair schedule within 14 days
Follow up if you don't receive a response — escalate to the site manager, then regional office

For detailed guidance on the reporting and escalation process, including email templates and warranty claims, see our complete snagging guide.

Quick Reference: Inspection Priority Order

If you're short on time, prioritise your inspection in this order:

Safety items first — smoke detectors, CO detectors, window restrictors, staircase gaps, fire doors
Water and plumbing — run every tap, flush every toilet, test every shower. Leaks cause the most damage if left
Heating — check every radiator and the boiler while the system is running
Kitchen and bathrooms — highest concentration of defects per room
External areas — weather-facing defects (gutters, seals, brickwork) worsen if not addressed
Loft — hidden defects here are the ones professionals find that most DIY inspections miss
General room finishes — paintwork, doors, skirting, cosmetic items

After the Inspection

Submit your snagging report promptly — ideally within 2 weeks of moving in
Keep inspecting as you live in the property — new issues will appear as the house dries out over the first 12 months (shrinkage cracks, sticking doors, nail pops)
Report additional defects as you find them — you have a full 2 years under the builder warranty period
Consider a professional re-inspection at the 6 or 12-month mark to catch hidden defects you may have missed
Keep all correspondence with the developer in writing — email, not phone calls
If the developer refuses to fix legitimate defects, use your warranty provider's resolution process